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Here is a first list of features that would be nice to have in the future:
- Improved UI (LED key feedback on top row)
- MIDI tick editing
- Real time recording with quantization
- MIDI clock support
- Error handling using the LED matrix?
There are UI challenges to implement MIDI tick editing (adjust timeing and pitch of individual notes within a position). Same for selecting real time recording or step recording.
Any suggestions are welcome!
I just uploaded a 3D model suitable for calibrating your fff/fdm 3DPrinter without having to spend time and filament on a bigger LEET model:
https://github.com/vonkonow/LEET-Synthesizer/tree/main/Accessories/3DPrinter_test
Print the stl file with standard settings:
• Material: PLA
• Nozzle temperature: 210deg C
• Nozzle opening diameter: 0.4mm
• Layer height: 0.2mm
• Infill: 20%
• Support: NoneThe backside should be smooth with openings for the wire paths.
1. Measure the thickness of the upper wall with a caliper. Adjust flow and reprint until the wall thickness is 1mm.
2. If wire paths are closed on the bottom increase first layer height (z nozzle distance).
3. Once the wire channels looks ok, test inserting a 6x6mm tact switch to see how it fits.Good luck!
Hi
I’m glad to see that the end result was great (even if the start was not optimal).
The other day I remodelled the parts to avoid the small part in the middle after great feedback from the forum, if you have more parts to print – test the new models.The monotonic infill is something i have to test!
You can definitely see the difference, it looks much better after adjusting the nozzle/ build plate height. If the print is a bit squeezed you can still use it by forcing the wire or widening the guides with your nail. The guide should be quite narrow in order to keep the wire in place (especially for the longer straight tracks).
Widening the model to compensate for a misconfigured printer is probably a bad idea, but if you want to use a wider wire you can do it by simply cut away a section of the backside. Since the wire guides are diamond shaped, each 0.1mm you take away will widen the opening 0.2mm.
This can either be done on the printed part by using a sandpaper (preferably wet sand on a flat surface). Ensure that you don’t tilt the part by comparing the openings on each corner.
It is quite easy to adjust the 3D model and trim off 0.1 or 0.2mm with a boolean difference operation by subtracting a solid block.
Yes, the 3DPCB is a concept that I developed, so unfortunately there is no design tools available ;(
But the concept is quite simple so I’m sure you can use existing PCB routing programs and sweep the resulting traces, depending on your choice of programs. I use Rhino3D but a solid modeling tool like solid works would probably be even better.
Hi
I’m glad the print worked out at the end – well done!
The orientation looks great on your photos. (Each switch is symmetrical and can rotate 180 degree (perpendicular to the top surface) with identical function).
I just posted LEET Arpeggiator documentation with all files needed to build your own:
Hi
I’m glad that the new models seem to be working better. And I think that you last photo looks great. Since some of the bridges contains wire channels that expands (diamond cross section), I’m not surprised that the slicer ignores them until they get thicker. The design is a compromise between number of wires, distance to components, guidance modelling effort and 3d printability. I could simply remove the thin supports, but then the wires would have less guiding and there would be more bridging since the switch opening will be bigger. Since it is on the backside, I don’t think it is critical if the printout has minor defects. There are still areas that could be improved, but right now I will prioritize to release the remaining devices (arpeggiator and sequencer).
Example of detail that can be improved, but hopefully won’t cause major issue.
I have corrected the pad stl. Thanks for noticing.
BTW, I have also added the possibility to upload images directly in the forum making it easier to share photos.
Hi Jay
I have not had any problem with first layer (have printed both on glass bed and on PEI coated sheet).
For the glass bed I usually use a thin layer of hairspray to ensure that part sticks, but the problem is usually the reverse. Have had parts that sticks so well to the glass that it chips…
If I print PET in 150% speed, I have noticed that some parts don’t adhere correctly. You could test if slower print speed helps. (on first layer)Hi I just redesigned Keyboard, Chord & Pad with new 3D models that connects the loose parts to improve 3D printing quality (all on github)
I appreciate the feedback and have no problem with support. By solving these issues, the product evolves and gets better!I just posted LEET Control documentation with all files needed to build your own:
I just posted LEET Pad documentation with project description, development process and all files needed to build your own:
https://vonkonow.com/wordpress/leet-pad/Don’t focus too much on exact diameter. I like 0.3mm, but smaller or larger will do just fine. Try a piece of lamp, ethernet or speaker chord and see how it works.
Redesign a version with standard Arduino interface should definitely be possible. Quickest way to test the boards is probably to solder two pin headers or sockets instead of the pro micro. Then you can use jumper cable to connect it temporarily to any board of choice.Hmm, I did a quick modification:
The middle part under the keys is now connected to the first layer, reducing risk of faulty prints (maybe at the cost of less space for soldering)
If you have the possibility, you can test if this works better:
https://github.com/vonkonow/LEET-Synthesizer/commit/28c8f049693179fef57e8de33c2a18f861086949
/jStrange, I have not had these issues on the printers that I have used (Prusa MK3s and BCN3D). I have also used quite a few different PLA filaments during development, and sliced both in cura and slic3r…
Typically, I have used the following (normal) settings:
• Bed temp 60-70 deg
• Nozzle temp 205deg
• 0.2mm layer height
• No supports, no raft
• Standard speed (recommended by the slicer)
There are small spots beneath each switch that adds support and wire guide under the switch, guess it is them that is causing the trouble.Try to add support and see if that holds it in place. Usually the support is not placed inside the wire channels anyway.
